Havana daydreamin’
Beyond its notorious mobsters, dictators, vintage cars and an old Jimmy Buffet song, we did not know much at all about this island nation when we booked our flight in late 2023. We simply looked at Cuba as a challenge and an adventure. If Hemingway loved it enough to live there—and who doesn’t trust Hemingway’s legendary travel writings and lifestyle—it was certainly worth a visit.
As expected, this 9-day trip took far more preparation than other family adventures due to the longtime embargo and travel restrictions for American citizens. So over the course of several months, we researched, watched Netflix series recommended by one of our Airbnb hosts and stockpiled an arsenal of travel sized snacks, medication and toiletries plus our our entire trip budget in small US bills. We also had a suitcase full of donations to leave behind.
So once our very full itinerary and luggage were prepped, we were cautiously optimistic about our trip which included ample time in the capital city of Havana as well as day trips to see the Viñales Valley, Hemingway’s farm and Playa Varadero.
It’s difficult to encapsulate our experience in just a few photos and words, but here goes…
Not included: Photos of Caroline’s terrible allergic reaction to mosquito bites on arrival and my nearly trip ending bout of Dysentery cured by the the procurement of some black market ciprofloxacin from an incredibly kind and well-connected new Cuban friend.
“The more I see, the less I know for sure.” John Lennon
We chose Support of the Cuban People as our visa category to enter Cuba. This requires Americans to have a full itinerary that fosters genuine interaction and conversations with locals. Airbnb made this very easy logistically and is without a doubt one of the country’s most important entrepreneurial lifelines.
Our last day included a visit to a wonderful English language library/bookshop/cafe run by an American journalist who accepts a long list of items—books included—that are carefully curated and shared with those in need.
Which begs the question, who is in need? Our answer: everyone we met. Without exception. The state of Cuba is shocking. There is no amount of research that can prepare one for a visit. Empty ration shelves. Empty pharmacies. Hospitals with no supplies. Crumbling buildings.
But also wellsprings of humility, honesty and hope. Nearly every Cuban we met has a plan to leave. Or a plan to stay and survive as best they can while also helping friends, colleagues, neighbors and family members, despite shortages, impossibly low wages, restrictions and rampant inflation.
Can we pretend to understand anything after just 9 days in country? Absolutely not.
After dropping our donations, our taxi drove us just two minutes to Lennon Park where a statue of John Lennon (who never visited Cuba) sits looking into the distance and attracts silly tourists (like us).
An apt ending to a trip that gave us far more to consider than we had to offer.
Thank you, Cuba.
Your people, your history, your ongoing struggle for revolution…Your kindness, hustle and gritty, heart wrenching day-to-day realities are impossible to forget.
Orginally posted on April 6, 2024 via Instagram @lekker.usa
